Well hello!
I apologize for not updating sooner. I have been surprisingly busy since National Holiday, which was the first week of October. National Day is officially October 1, but we got the entire week off! My friend Nate and I headed to Western Sichuan for this little break.
As Sichuan borders Tibet to the west, Western Sichuan has a pretty significant Tibetan influence. For foreigners, going to Tibet is a huge hassle. You need to get a permit, a visa, pay for a guide everyday that you’re there and more. This is all provided that Tibet is actually open to foreigners; it’s not uncommon to hear reports of monks setting themselves on fire in protest of the Chinese government. When unrest such as that happens, Tibet is closed to foreigners.
Anyway, going to Western Sichuan is as close to Tibet as you’ll get if you’re like me and don’t want to pay a ton of money to get over there. Also, Kangding, the biggest city in the area, is technically supposed to be eight hours away by bus.
Technically.
I met up with Nate in Chengdu and from there we hopped a bus to Kangding. I had been warned that it would take much longer than eight hours, and it was. We got to Kangding around 11 1/2 hours later. What caused the delays? First, there is only one road through the mountains to Kangding. One road, two lanes, and a ton of construction and/or landslides. As a result, we stopped probably every hour or two to wait for the road to clear…or something. It was a pretty miserable ride and, to add insult to injury, it was pouring rain and cold and 11:00 p.m. when we finally made it.
Thankfully, we found a hotel pretty quickly that actually wasn’t too expensive. Here’s our view from the hotel room window:
Next day was Sunday and we headed to another town, Tagong. Tagong is a small town about 3 hours away from Kangding. It is almost completely Tibetan; I think the only Han Chinese people we saw were tourists. Surrounding Tagong were monasteries, tons of prayer flags, and many nomadic herders’ camps. It was another side of China that I hadn’t really seen before. We hired a car to take us there for 40 rmb each.
To give you an idea of the ride, Kangding has an altitude of about 2,600 meters and Tagong has an altitude of about 3,700 meters. The scenery was beautiful and the weather was great….for a car ride! It didn’t stay sunny and blue for long. At any rate, here are some photos from the ride:
There’s a famous song in China called the Kangding Love Song – that’s what it says on the side of this mountain
Tibetan architecture
Once we got to Tagong, we randomly ran into a few other PCVs who were getting ready to go on a five day horse trek. We couldn’t afford that, but did agree to hike with them until we found a camping spot.
15 minutes into the hike, it started to rain. And then it started to hail. Miserable, Nate and I headed back to the hostel to dry off, warm up and wait for the rain to pass. Thankfully, it did. We walked around the tiny town and found a spot to set up camp for the night on a cliff on the side of a mountain.
The main square of the town
Prayer wheels that lead to the outskirts of town
I think this is a monastery, on the outskirts of town
More prayer wheels and prayer flags on the side of the mountain
En route to our campsite…the other side of town
Monastery that we camped close to
Gorgeous snow-capped mountains in the distance
Our campsite!
World’s smallest, flimsiest tent
Our neighbors, some yaks hanging out
It was a terrible night’s sleep. On the bright side, it didn’t rain. Which is wonderful because we didn’t have sleeping pads and the tent didn’t have a rain fly. Still, it was extremely uncomfortable and awful. We woke up the next morning ready to get out of there and head back to Kangding, where we’d meet up with other PCVs for more camping.
The driver we hired this time was a big, burly Tibetan mountain man. He was nuts. Before we got on the main road to Kangding, he took us off-roading for a good 45 minutes to pick up another passenger – a small Tibetan woman who had a very unsteady stomach. Poor girl puked about six times throughout the ride.
Our driver, this crazy man, decided that he needed a car wash before dropping us off in Kangding. So he pulled over and hosed the car down while we waited inside, not knowing what to think.
Then, mountain man tried to drop us off somewhere outside of town. This thoroughly confused us. We had no idea where we were. He tried to tell us we could walk to Kangding from here, but after some arguing and choice words he conceded and took us to where we wanted to go (which is what we paid for).
The weather was amazing. Perfect temperature, sunny, blue skies. Everything that China usually isn’t. We went on a hike up Paoma Shan, a mountain right in town clustered with tons of prayer flags.
Pride Rock!
So that was our hike! It was really nice, even though it was all stairs. We seemed to be the only ones on the hike, too, which was even better.
That evening, we camped with some of our friends. It was marginally better than the first night. We had a campfire, good company, and even fixed up our tent situation a bit:
Umbrellas as a rain fly…worked out excellently!
We stayed in Kangding for one more night after that. It was another terrible night of camping, truth be told, but at least we saved money!
The journey back to Leshan was long and terrible. It took 14 hours. It was hell, really.
All in all, Kangding and Tagong were beautiful. It was a great experience, despite a few pitfalls here and there. If nothing else, they add to the adventure. Right?